One morning at the end of January, I set out with a friend just after sunrise. She had agreed to join me for a hike on Caladesi Island, one of the few remaining pristine barrier islands in the Gulf of Mexico, situated a mile and a half off shore from the city of Dunedin, FL.
It was called Hog Island until 1921 when a major hurricane split it into two separate islands. The Hurricane Pass was formed. The northernmost island became known as Honeymoon Island after becoming popular with honeymooners in late 1930s. The southern island got its name, or so the story goes, after a Spaniard named “Desi” said to have lived on the island bayou, which is “cala” in Spanish. Caladesi.
Caladesi Island, now a state park, was “discovered” in 1888 by a Swiss immigrant, Henry Scharrer, who became the first and only homesteader ever on the island. His daughter, Myrtle, who was born there in 1895, has written an interesting book, “Yesteryear I Lived in Paradise – The Story of Caladesi Island”, first published in 1984.
In the book, she gives a timeline of the area’s early history involving the Tocobaga, Seminole and Miccosukee people, and the Spanish – English – Spanish rule until the Florida territory was acquired by the U.S. in 1821. She also describes her family’s life on the island in late 1800s and early 1900s in vivid color and fascinating detail.
We started our trip by driving to Honeymoon Island. From there we took the first boat of the day over to Caladesi. The air was cool. The ocean was completely still. A light mist was rising from the water as the sun slowly climbed higher.
Suddenly we spotted some movement in the water. It was a bottlenose dolphin on a morning swim in the sparkling ocean.
A few minutes later we passed the northernmost tip of Caladesi Island. White sand, shore birds … and more dolphins, all swept in the soft blue of the morning.
We watched them quietly for a while – and got another delightful surprise. A mother dolphin with a baby beside her “floated” by on the other side of the boat. They might have been sleeping. It certainly was a dream-like moment. Dolphins are such enchanting beings, meeting so many of them first thing in the morning was a treat. The universe was smiling.
The boat ride was short, about 20 minutes, and soon we started to navigate our way into the marina, the only establishment on the island. I was excited to finally experience the beauty of the island I had read so much about.
The island is about six miles (9.6 km) long. We decided to start by walking south on the beach, and then hike the 3-mile (4.8 km) nature trail in the interior of the island. The beach was pristine, so beautiful I could have walked there for the whole length of the island!
But we wanted to see more. I knew that unlike Honeymoon Island, this was not a place where I could spot lots of birds inland, but I anticipated that the nature itself would be breathtaking. And it was, Florida in its natural state, as it used to be.
The trail passed through beautiful old pine, oak and palm forests. And soon we came across the beautiful waterway along which one could reach the interior of the island by kayak.
When we came closer to the former homestead, we found the only fresh water pond on the island. That’s where Myrtle and her family got their water for daily use. Trees were bending over the pond, as if protecting it from the passage of time. And silence… was breathing in mesmerizing colors.
Fairly close to the pond, we literally stumbled upon the famous “Harp Tree” or twin pine as it’s also called. Numerous photos were taken there, and are exhibited in the book, by early photographers who came to the island to visit Myrtle’s family.
It was a beautiful spot. I could feel the wing beats of history in the air. It was easy to imagine how life used to be there a hundred years ago, and how exciting photography had to be for these early pioneers. There would always be someone willing to climb up to be pictured sitting in the Harp Tree.
Then the trail turned back towards north and the harbor. We were admiring the old trees when we heard some rustling in the bushes next to the trail. We stopped, looked carefully, and saw a nine banded armadillo trying to dig a hole in the ground, either to find food or to prepare a new burrow. His head was already far down there, and he was working hard.
The last part of the trail was equally beautiful. I felt like I’d been thrown back in time. A harsh time in many ways, but much more simple and peaceful in this island paradise.
The tranquility of Caladesi Island was tangible. Being dipped so deep into untouched nature was inspirational and soothing for the soul. Like coming back to my real origins.
TINY LESSONS BLOG 
What an absolutely stunning place. So serene and pristine. Lovely!
Thanks Nancy! It is incredibly serene an unspoiled, like being in another time.
Amazingly beautiful. Great photos!
Thank you Andy. I’m happy you came along and enjoyed the hike.
Thanks for taking me 😃
You’re welcome 😀
Oh, how I wish I could have been there with you! What a wonderful place of peace. Thank you my friend for sharing it with us. ❤
One day, when you come here to visit, we’ll do this hike together 🙂 Happy you liked the virtual one, my friend!
I’ll be looking forward to that day! ❤
Me too!
Wonderful photos! And I love the bits of history as well. I can even imagine living there in the past. I’ll have to add Caladesi to my list of places to visit…and include a walk on the beach, too.
Thanks Cyndi! This island is worth a visit. The beach was voted America’s best beach a few years ago, and I understand why. The history is interesting too, I’m happy I had read so much about it, made the hike even more meaningful.
Every time I see one of your posts, I’m filled with envy for the natural beauty and all the creatures you seem to be surrounded by. And then I remember the bugs. I’ll admire from afar, from Minnesota where I appreciate a good bug and weed killing season!
There were a some mosquitoes in the interior of this island, but a bug spray kept them off…I like almost everything in nature, but can’t say I like bugs. Luckily we don’t have any on the island where I live, not even in the salt marsh, as the bugs don’t like the breeze from the ocean 🙂
Nice place for a second honeymoon. I’ll have to put a “bug” in hubby’s ear…
I like that bug! Both these islands are worth a second honeymoon visit! Nice places to stay on the mainland too, even in the historic Dunedin close by.
Simply stunning! Amazing place and photos. Thank you for sharing~
It is an incredibly beautiful place. Happy you enjoyed it, Cindy.
Soothing….
It was, and the peace of the place still sits on my shoulder.
So interesting … And captivating 🙂
Happy it captivated you too. It is a spellbinding island, and I’m still “under influence” 😉
Tranquility… a word that I will long associate with your blog and lovely photos. Thank you, Tiny.
That is a wonderful association. Thank you Eric for your kind comment.
Beautiful place to visit Tiny! The waters are so blue and the sands so inviting to have a stroll. Very nice post! 🙂
Thanks H.J.! That beach is incredible, natural beauty all around. You guys would love to stroll there 🙂
Lovely, Tiny ~ so glad that you enjoyed your stroll around the island and the boat ride over with Dolphins as tour guides! We’ve been to Honeymoon Island and Dunedin but didn’t have time to head over to Caladesi. Maybe next time.
Hi Nancy, it’s worth to take the trip over! Even for strolling on the beach when the weather is good…and do it before it gets too crowded. When we went, there were some people on the beaches but nobody else on the trail.
this was love at first sight with these delicate hues of blue. i wished i could have been your blind passenger…
Thanks Sirpa. It was a great ride, I’m happy you enjoyed it.
Fabulous pictures of Caladesi Island! You captured the unique peace of nature there and were able to go back in time if only for a moment! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you Patrick. Unique peace is truly a good way to describe the experience. Thanks for coming along!
I so enjoyed the tour of this beautiful island. It must be exciting to see the dolphins, these are remarkable photo captures! Thank you so much for the delightful post, Tiny!
Thanks Amy, happy you liked it! It was quite an experience to see so many dolphins that morning.
Thank you for sharing these beautiful photos, Tiny!
How delightful, Helen; you brought magic to a time gone by. A wonderful journey, I’m sure…
Happy you enjoyed the journey back in time, Carolyn! Always nice to see you 🙂
What an amazing adventure!
It was! I’m so happy places like that still exist.
Beyond breathtaking…Thank you for taking me, vicariously, on this magical journey!!!
I have been to the Island many times. I finally read the book and went just to hike the trails. I was hooked.There is a bench that faces Dunedin pass off the trail around marker 12. a foot path to the shore will take you there. My picnic spot of serenity on the island if living history
It is a wonderful island and somehow the history still feels so alive there.